6 Essential Hand Sewing Stitches Every Mender and Maker Should Know

Part 1 of the Fibre of My Being Mending Series

Mending can feel overwhelming when you don’t know where to start. What stitch should you use? Will it hold? Does it have to look perfect?

This is the first post in a new series I’m putting together to help build your mending skills step-by-step. I’ll cover core techniques like handy hand-sewing stitches, how to start and finish your stitching, patching methods, simple darning, creative visible repairs, using embroidery to mend with personality, and how to mend when you are aiming for an invisible finish.

Whether you’re repairing for function, aesthetics, or sustainability, this series will walk through the techniques I use most: starting with the six stitches that form the foundation of nearly every repair I do.

You don’t need fancy tools or sewing experience. Just a needle, some thread, and the willingness to give it a go (don’t have the tools? Find them here). If you prefer to watch rather than read, there’s also a video tutorial showing each stitch in action later in this post. There’s also a free printable reference guide you can download to keep by your side as you stitch.

Contents:

• 1. Straight Stitch (aka Running Stitch)

• 2. Backstitch

• 3. Whip Stitch

• 4. Ladder Stitch (also called Mattress Stitch)

• 5. Blanket Stitch

• 6. Hem Stitch

• Video Tutorial

• Printable Guide

• More Mending to Come

1. Straight Stitch (aka Running Stitch)

Let’s start where most people do. This is the most basic of stitches and will still save you even if you never learn another. The straight stitch is exactly what it sounds like: a simple stitch that follows a straight line.

It can hold two pieces of fabric together, reinforce worn areas, or be used purely for decoration. I learnt this one as a young child. It’s a great stitch to teach kids too, especially if they’re just starting to sew.

It’s also the foundation of sashiko and helps give the geometric patterns their clean and satisfying look.

You’ll use this stitch for small tears, seams, sashiko or building up visible mending rows in a decorative grid.

How to do it:
Bring the needle up from the back of the fabric, then down again in a straight line a short distance away. Repeat this up and down through the fabric. Try to keep the length and spacing of each stitch as consistent as you can.

Quick tips:

• Try to keep your stitches even. If you don’t want help keeping them even, make two small pencil marks on your thumbnail to guide your stitch size.

• Don’t pull too tight. You want the thread to rest gently in the fabric with just enough tension to lie flat. Too tight and it’ll pucker, too loose and it will gape and not hold well.

2. Backstitch

This one’s your go-to when strength matters. It creates a solid, continuous line of stitching that holds up well under tension. If a seam has come apart or you’re mending a spot that gets stretched or rubbed a lot, backstitch is your best bet.

It’s also great for outlines in embroidery and adding detail in visible mending projects where you want crisp lines.

You’ll find it especially handy for side seams, underarms, crotches, and anywhere that gets regular wear and tear.

This is a great one to teach kids if they’re making small stuffed animals. I used to love making them out of old socks. My stitches were never even and looked messy, but they were strong. When the toy was turned the right way, all the mess was hidden. That made my younger self feel so proud to make something neat even if the inside was chaos.

How to do it:
Bring your needle up through the fabric. Instead of moving forward, go one stitch length backward into the end of the previous stitch. Then bring the needle up again one stitch length forward from where your needle started, and repeat. You’re basically sewing in reverse as you move forward. Think one step back, two steps forward.
This one is tricky to describe in words, so check out the pictures or video if you’re unsure.

Quick tips:

• Try to keep your needle entering at the end of the previous stitch. This is what gives backstitch its strength.

• Keep your stitches small and even for the best durability

• Use a thimble if you’re stitching through heavy fabric like denim or canvas. Your fingertips will thank you

• If you're using it as a visible stitch, be deliberate with your spacing. Tidy stitches make for a sharp, bold lines

3. Whip Stitch

Whip stitch is one of those stitches that’s fast, simple, and surprisingly useful. It wraps around the edge of the fabric, so it’s ideal for closing up holes, attaching patches, or hiding raw edges.

I often use this one for repairs that don’t need to be invisible. When fabric is at an edge or at risk of fraying, this stitch can help bundle even small raw edges into something strong and manageable. It’s not a stitch that can be hidden unless used on the inside of a garment (for example to fell a seam) so it works well for visible mending, especially when you want the repair to look a bit handmade in the best way.

If done a little tighter, whip stitch can also create a raised ridge that adds strength and becomes decorative. Think of it as a stem for an embroidered flower or a simple way to edge a patch with some extra texture.

It’s also handy for mending knitwear, especially when you’re joining edges where mattress stitch feels too fiddly.

How to do it:
Bring your needle up from the back of the fabric near the edge. Then pass the needle over the edge and down through the fabric again a short distance along the edge. Or, if it feels more natural, you can start from the front and loop over the top, passing back through the fabric from the front side. Keep repeating this motion in the same direction so the stitches loop around the edge like a spiral. Try to keep your spacing even.

Quick tips:

• The angle of your needle matters. Try to insert and pull through at the same angle each time for a cleaner look

• This stitch shows on the outside, so why not use it as a feature. Contrasting thread can highlight your mend in a bold and beautiful way

• If you’re patching with it, sew all the way around the patch edge and secure with a double stitch at the end to keep it strong

• Works well on thicker fabrics like felt, wool, and denim where the edges benefit from reinforcement

• Also great for felled seams where you want to hide raw edges

4. Ladder Stitch (also called Mattress Stitch)

Ladder stitch is the magic one when you want your stitching to disappear. It’s used to close seams invisibly, join edges, or finish soft toys and knitwear where you want a neat look with no visible thread.

I use this one most for closing holes in my little ones stuffed toys, And I’m always impressed by how clean the finish is. Once you see the stitches vanish into the fabric as you pull the thread tight, it feels like a magic.

This stitch is especially helpful for curved joins or closing up something that's already been stuffed. It holds well but blends into the fabric, especially when you use matching thread.

How to do it:
Bring your needle up from the inside fold on one side of the seam. Then go straight across and enter the fold on the opposite side. Pull through gently, then go back to the first side and pick up a small stitch directly across from the last one. Repeat this, alternating sides, like you're climbing a ladder. To close the seam, pull the thread gently to close the gap. The stitches will disappear into the seam.

Quick tips:

• Keep your needle parallel to the seam as you stitch across. This helps it sit flush

• Use small stitches and pull the thread snug, not tight. You want the seam to close cleanly without puckering

• Works best with matching thread, but can still look neat with contrast if your spacing is tidy

• Great for the final step in soft toy making, hemming knitwear, or closing cushion covers

• For knitwear, go through the bars between stitches rather than into the yarn itself, it holds better and looks cleaner

5. Blanket Stitch

Blanket stitch is one of those stitches that looks decorative but does real work. It’s great for finishing raw edges, especially on thicker fabrics, and it’s often used to add a handmade feel to visible mending.

I love using this one for edging patches. My son used to wear through the knees of his pants regularly, so adding patches became a frequent job. Blanket stitch was my go-to for those repairs, sewing around the edge of the patch to make it look purposeful and neat. It’s a great stitch for giving structure to soft edges while adding a bit of flair at the same time.

It’s especially good for patching where you want the edge to be secure but still visible, particularly when there’s no hiding the fact that it’s a sewn-on patch. It also works well when you’re working by hand but want a finish that won’t fray easily.

How to do it:
Bring your needle up through the fabric near the edge. Insert your needle into the patch slightly below and off to the side of your previous stitch front to back, but before pulling it tight, pass the needle through the loop that forms. This anchors the thread along the edge. Keep working like this, spacing your stitches evenly and always looping the thread before tightening. The result is a line of straight stitches running along the edge, all linked by thread.

Quick tips:

• Keep the distance between stitches and the edge consistent for the cleanest look

• Works well on any fabric that might fray at the edges

• This one shines with contrast thread, lean into it and use colour to turn a mend into a feature

• Great for finishing the edge of patches, especially if the patch has a raw or thick edge

• Anchor your first and last stitches well so the line doesn't unravel over time

• Patches with curved corners are easier to sew with this method than square corners

6. Hem Stitch

Hem stitch is subtle, tidy, and made to disappear: which is exactly what you want when finishing a hem by hand. It holds the folded edge in place without showing through to the front, making it perfect for garments where you want a clean, invisible finish.

It’s the stitch I turn to when machine sewing would be too bold or bulky. Being a short girl, I’ve had to hem nearly every pair of pants I’ve ever owned, so this one gets a lot of use. Once you get the hang of it, it’s quick and has a neat finish.

How to do it:
Start from inside the hem fold. Do a tiny stitch in the folded edge, then catch just a thread or two of the fabric above. Go back into the fold and repeat. From the front, you’ll barely see a thing.

Quick tips:

• Keep your spacing even for a smooth finish

• Use thread that matches your fabric if you want it to truly disappear

• Don’t pull tight, the thread should rest gently across the surface

Video Tutorial

More of a visual learner?

I’ve put together a short video showing all five stitches, start to finish. You can watch it here:

Printable Guide

Want a guide you can print and keep by your side?
Here’s a one-page reference with all six stitches. Perfect to have on hand while you mend.

More Mending Blogs to Come

This is just the beginning. There’s more to come, though not on a fixed schedule. Posts will come as I’m able to make them (with other blog between), but each one will build on your skills and help you mend with more confidence.

We’ll look at how to start and finish your stitching so your mends stay secure and tidy, patching techniques, simple darning, using embroidery in your repairs, and how to decide between visible or invisible mending.

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Want to give it a go?
I’ve got tools and supplies for mending if you need a place to start.

If you’re ready to go further, you might like this blog post on getting started with mending using tea towels.